Mourning Doves used to be called Turtle Doves

Mourning Dove

Back in 1731, when the Mourning Dove was first described in North America, it was called the "Turtle of Carolina". A decade or so later its name morphed into "Turtle Dove". But the real Turtle Dove is found only in Europe. Today our bird is called the Mourning Dove, after its incredibly memorable, mournful song.

Europe's Turtle Doves were commonly known as "turtur" which imitates the birds' call. Around 1500, the final "R" was replaced by an "L", making the often-translated biblical phrase "...the voice of the turtle is heard in our land" make a tiny bit of sense.

The Mourning Dove is a very common bird - with over 400-million of them in North America. Which is a good thing, odds wise; about 70% of young doves die in the first year. But they adapt well to a human-directed environment, unlike its Passenger Pigeon cousin which was once touted as the most abundant bird in the world (but is now extinct).

You can attract Mourning Doves to your yard, but keep in mind that you might attract other kinds of doves too. They tolerate birdfeeders, but prefer to pick through seed scattered on the ground. (Better footing!) Doves have a tough time with ordinary tube feeders, where the relativelty short perches don't accomodate relatively large birds. Also, make sure you have several large shrubs around, so they can nest undisturbed. In warm weather birdbaths are also a big draw.

 

 

 

“Hey skunk;  here I am!”      I know it’s counter intuitive, but if you come upon a skunk (within about 20 feet), make some noise as you slowly step out of the way. Just whistle or hum or recite a nursery rhyme - it makes no difference.  Reason?  Skunks have terrible eyesight. Whatever’s beyond 3 feet is just a hazy blur to them. And if it’s surprised by something it can’t see well, it sprays. So let it know you’re there.

 

Get your landscape ready for a north Texas summer

This area’s typical summer weather is coming. We’ve received almost our normal meager rainfall this past winter. Weather experts predict that our spring will turn into our customary bone-bleaching summer. (It has for the past couple of hundred years)!

Unless your utility costs mean nothing to you, there are methods you can use to yield a colorful, bird-friendly landscape, even during our 100-degree days. But you've got to prepare for it NOW. During my 30+ years as a Landscape Architect, I've arrived at these guidelines for getting your landscape through a north Texas summer;

The edge of the lawn 

 Avoid over-maintaining
        Leave your yard alone during the heat! During my tenure as a Landscape Architect in north Texas (and more as a homeowner) I've seen, over and over, that landscapes do much better in the heat if they're left to grow how they want. Cutting the lawn, and occasionally watering, is all you need to do.

Look on a north Texas summer not as a bad thing, but as an experiment. Use it to see what makes it to mid-September and what doesn't. Remember what you learn from your experiments and you'll be better prepared for the following summer, and all the Texas summers after that.

 Minimize your lawn area
       A manicured lawn is a real ego-builder. It also takes a huge amount of work. You know; sweating profusely while you mow, trim, fertilize, weed and kill bugs. Then there's the expense! Entire industries have sprung up just to primp your lawn and exhaust your checkbook.  Yet, on any given weekend, you can spot scores of exhausted homeowners out working on their lawns.

I'd advise people to simply let part of the lawn grow naturally until late September's cooler weather. There should be a distinct edge to your lawn. Choose about half of your current lawn for the usual mowing, watering, etc., and let the rest be taller.

          If you can't resist the urge to cut your lawn, let the clippings stay on the grass, acting as mulch and providing a tiny bit of shade for the grass' roots. Doing so saves about one fertilization per year. And whatever you do, stay away from artificial chemicals and soil additives - they just make plants thirstier.

 Mulch just about everything
       Simply put, a top-layer of mulch cools the soil and holds in moisture, so you need to water less. It also keeps out all but the most determined weeds. Mulch can be just ground-up bark chips, shredded leaves or composted grass clippings or other yard waste.

 Use native plants
     Native plants grew up in this type of summer (their ancestors did, anyway) and with our poor soil. They're used it. Once a native Texas plant is established, it needs little or no extra water. Birds and butterflies are attracted to them much more readily than exotics.

     Most native plants aren't hard to find. In fact, nine of the 12 trees recommended for Denton by Keep Denton Beautiful are native trees that are available in most nurseries. On the other hand, things like hybrid roses, French lilacs, gardenias and azaleas are from elsewhere in the world (where water isn't a problem) and will have a tough time here.

 Use “hardscape'
This is "landscape-speak," for anything in the landscape that's not supposed to be alive and is relatively immobile. Examples: a driveway, a deck, a fence, a wall or a patio. Clearly, these take almost no maintenance. Just don't let hardscape dominate.

 Divide the yard into zones
   There's the active zone with a few potted plants and maybe some outdoor chairs on a patio. Probably there's a garden zone with flowerbeds and such. Maybe there's a natural zone, which is favored by birds. And there's the ubiquitous lawn zone. (You get the idea!). Zones let you do yard maintenance in short, targeted spurts.

 

 

Keeping bees and wasps away from your Hummingbird feeder

 

Rufous Hummingbird

Obviously, bees (and wasps) are after the sugar.  So it pays to be very careful when filling a nectar feeder.  Even a tiny splash attracts bees.

 

Some people will even wipe down a feeder using a weak bleach or vinegar solution, while it hangs. If bees still find it, move the feeder at least 10 ft. away from its current location (messes up bees' directional ability) or take it down completely for a couple of days.

 

 

Avoid mistakenly poisoning birds  Several reports tell about birds dying in large numbers near homes. This is strange!

A frequent explanation, from scientists who should know, is cross-contamination. Large stores tend to stock both birdseed and pesticides. There are accidental spills sometimes and the spillage gets mixed together (they can look similar to the untrained eye). Also, many seed crops up north are sometimes sprayed with chemicals. Up north, birds may have developed a resistance; but not north Texas birds. Hence, birds visiting your feeder can sometimes be eating poison.

It doesn't happen a lot (once is plenty). My advice is to play it safe, and avoid buying birdseed from a retailer that also stocks weed-killer, weed & feed or pesticides. The life of a bird, or many birds, is worth more than the few cents you might save.

 

 

Maybe some of your plants died quietly during the wint

Plants that die during the fall and winter, you probably won’t spot until the spring. When the weather warms up, they simply won’t put out leaves. Don't pronounce death too quickly, however. Some plants (like Lantana, Pecan & Crape Myrtle) are late bloomers.

Death is usually caused by a lack of water rather than by winter’s cold temperatures. Plants may be native to this area, or very adaptable, but no plant can live without 12 months ofwater. Or with too much water. If properly watered, however, our cold-hardy plants make it through the worst north Texas weather.

You’re probably thinking; what exactly is ”properly-watered”? A rough guideline follows, but there’s really no standard answer. It depends on a bunch of variables like the species, age of the plant, the plant’s location, the type of soil and rainfall we get. Often, the natural rainfall keeps plants alive, but there’s no guarantee. You’re best off, as during the summer, with native plants that thrive in our soil and require minimal water.

 Plants need a steady, even level of moisture to make them able to handle the cold. I’m not saying anything remotely close to “the more water the better”. The rule of thumb is to water plants thoroughly once every 2 to 3 weeks through the fall and winter months. If there’s a good rain, count it as a “watering”.  Often, no artificial watering is what a plant needs.   When you have to water by sprinkler, make it brief to prevent wasteful run-off. About early-March, resume your regular watering schedule.

During the winter, the portion of the plant that’s above-ground may have turned brown and look lifeless. But the roots are still very much alive. In fact, in Texas (thanks to our mild climate) the roots often grow vigorously all winter.

Plants need to produce high concentrations of dissolved sugars, amino acids and other soluble organic molecules to stay resilient. Water is essential for these processes to occur. This may seem like an unnecessarily detailed explanation, so all we really need to know is that regular watering, summer and winter is one way to assure that roots won't dry out.

For those of us who have planted young plants or bulbs this past fall, it is essential that we keep them well watered whenever the winter weather is dry. Prolonged dryness from fall through late winter will result in slow growth and a poor showing of flowers the following spring. A 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch helps immensely, acting sort of like insulation. (I simply use brown, shredded leaves which are, of course, free).

All living things need water year-‘round. If we don’t get regular rains in the winter, give your landscape a touch of extra care in the form of water and it will reward you with healthy, strong and growing plants.  If a plant hasn't greened up by mid-April, try bending a small branch (as thick as a pencil). If it breaks, the plant's probably dead. If it's springy and supple, it's just taking its time leafing out.      

 

 

Hummingbirds are on their way to north Texas

In north Texas, put up Hummingbird feeders in mid-March, and keep the nectar fresh (4 to 1 blend of clear water & sugar), especially in hot weather.

Also, as Hummingbird season approaches, remember these facts:

• The color red is not the only Hummingbird attractant. They are attracted to any bright color, except green. (this helps them find flowers in the wild)
• Several recent studies have proven that red food coloring in nectar can cause genetic damage in Hummingbirds.
• These days, almost all nectar feeders are brightly-colored; making coloring the nectar unnecessary. (if yours isn't, just tie a brightly-colored ribbon to it) 

 

Barn Owls

Throughout the year, most north Texas homeowners are visited by mice and rats. I've written before that owls are easily the best antidote. However, if the rodent has recently eaten a poison, and an owl eats the rodent in the 3 to 8+ hours before it dies, the owl will probably die too.

When you see mice or rats, the impulse is to visit your local hardware store or big-box store and get some commercially-available poison (they’re all pretty much the same).  But what none of them tell you on the label is that most of these dangerous poisons will kill owls, hawks and pets and other non-target wildlife too. Maybe even children.

These common poisons are called “second generation anticoagulant rodenticides”. They go under names like Hot Shot, d-Con, Generation, Talon, Spectrum and Havoc. The E.P.A. has declared them too dangerous for public use, and ordered them off the market. But stores are selling off their huge, existing stocks. Some manufacturers are even defying the E.P.A. order and continuing to make it (and making big profits).

 There are alternative rodent devices that are totally efficient, but far less dangerous to non-target wildlife, pets and youngsters. A quick internet search easily discloses them. These, coupled with common-sense practices, effectively reduce mouse and rat populations ONLY.  Practices include putting tight lids on trashcans, and not leaving pet’s food outside at night.

 Of course, the best rodenticide by far is owls (helped by coyotes and foxes and bobcats and hawks). Killing off the non-target wildlife, along with the rodents, means that when the prolific rodents repopulate, you’ll be battling them without natural, wild allies.

 

It's never the wrong time to mulch your plants. Even now!

My favorite mulch;  free leaves

   We’re approaching the season of dry, relentless Texas heat, so it’s an especially good time to mulch your landscape plants. Actually I recommend that new plants not be planted at all after the start of May, unless you apply a healthy layer of mulch to the entire root zone.

Mulching your plants is a method that’s as natural as you can get. For as long as shrubs and trees have grown on this earth, their leaves have fallen to the ground yearly and formed a natural protective layer of mulch.  As the leaves decompose, they become extremely fertile, water-retentive organic matter to naturally augment and enrich our soil.

       I’ve had easily the best results with organic mulches. These are mulches derived from natural materials (usually plants) that were once alive. Over time, organic mulches will decompose and become part of the soil. Inorganic ones won't. Decomposition adds “humus” to our soil, helping it retain water and adding nutrients. This means, however, that organic mulches need to be replenished every few years. 

There are several types of organic mulches; they’re ground to various sizes, and they have a variety of names. Often, city landfill’s (like Denton’s) sell them.

 
Shredded leaves. When dead leaves are shredded they're often used as a mulch; they decompose quickly and greatly improve the soil. I use them exclusively on my own yard. You’ll never see shredded leaf mulch advertised or sold because it’s abundant and totally free.  I just mulched up the leaves on my lawn, so I won't have to fertilize this spring. These ground-up leaves contain a lot of carbon and other nutrients, so it's a shameful waste just to bag them up and discard them.

Bark. Bark mulches are made from the by-products of logs. Most common are shredded bark and bark chunks. Bark mulches resist compaction, will not blow away easily, are very attractive, and are readily available. Pine bark tends to float away, but bark mulch made from native trees is highly prized.

Wood chips. Wood chips are made from ground-up trees and shrubs. They stay in place, and weather to an attractive gray color. The process is the ultimate in recycling since mulch is made from trimmings and old lumber that you and your neighbors throw out. Several sizes are available. Colors are available too – but I avoid using them since they look unnatural and are easily messed up. Most mulches have been properly aged or composted (self-heated) to kill unwanted seeds or diseases.

Cedar chips. These are a popular kind of wood chip, but I steer people away from them. Thed mulch may smell nice temporarily, but the harvesting of the cedar trees is often done at the expense of dwindling wildlife habitat.

Sawdust. Sawdust makes a poor mulch for most situations since weed seeds easily sprout in it. It also tends to cake, making it harder for water to soak into the ground – a big disadvantage in our climate. It also robs nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes, so more fertilizer may be needed. However, a little bit, mixed in with another kind of mulch, is okay.

Straw. Straw makes a good mulch for gardens. It is inexpensive, suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, and insulates well. On the other hand, it is not very attractive, may contain crop seeds, and is extremely flammable. Some may even contain growth-retarding chemicals. It’s important to use "straw" rather than "hay," since hay contains many viable weed seeds. 

Pine needles. Pine needles are attractive, decompose slowly, resist compaction, and are easy to work with. However, they are notorious for washing away in a rainstorm. They are often available commercially or are free if you have pine trees on your property.

 For newly-planted trees and shrubs, spread mulch evenly underneath the plant, about 3 inches deep. For trees and shrubs that have been in place a long time, I’d recommend a 2 inch layer of mulch on the root zone. For trees and shrubs within a lawn, I’d strongly suggest reshaping the lawn if you can. (Lawns and trees have very different water needs.)  Otherwise, mulch a wide ring (extending from 3 to 6 feet out from the trunk) around each tree (the "root zone"). Be careful not to pile mulch up against tree trunks.  Don't let mulch build up to depths greater than about 4 inches.

For areas of flowers or ground cover, mulch should be applied up to 2 inches deep (after settling), but should not come in contact with any plant stems, leaves or branches. Any unwanted plants that grow through the mulch layer can easily be pulled out by hand.

 When is the best time to put down mulch?  There’s no season or time when it shouldn’t be done, so the very best time is to do it today! Especially if there's warmer weather coming.

 

 

How to frustrate large "bully birds" taking over your feeder

Most large “bully” birds, such as Crows and Grackles, can be discouraged by using a weight-sensitive feeder.  (We use two at our house.) Some “squirrel-resistant” birdfeeders can adjust. So when anything heavier than a few ounces sits in front of a seed port, the port closes. (Most “good” birds weigh less than 2 ounces.) Often, the feeder’s “tipping point” can be adjusted. If, for instance, you like Blue Jays – which weigh about 5 or 6 ounces, but don’t want Grackles, which are about 8 ounces you can set the tipping point at 7 oz. to exclude one species but not the other.

White-wing Doves

Another tip: Large birds (White-wing Doves come to mind) can be discouraged with a tube-type feeder. The perches should be no longer than 2 inches [1.5 inches is better]. That's because bigger birds can't sit on the small perch - they fall off and eventually give up!

 

“Really…how does a bag of chemicals know the difference?”     Be very, very wary of claims of certain chemical/fertilizers that say they “kill weeds, but not your grass”. Bulls**t!  The problem is that there’s absolutely no universal definition of a “weed”, unlike a “tree”, ”shrub” or “flower”. In plain language, absolutely nobody can tell you definitively what a "weed" is.  Certainly not a bag of fertilizer.

   A weed could actually be any plant that’s growing where you don’t want it to grow…such as a rose growing in your driveway. Each of us knows what a "weed" is to us, but That's probably different from you neighbor's definition. In my Landscape Architecture work, I’ve always wondered how a chemical can tell the difference between what you want and don’t want.