What you can do about the diminishing number of Monarch butterflies

Monarch butterfly

The N.Y. Times reports that the number of Monarch butterflies at their central-Mexico winter home is down about 59 percent – the lowest since record-keeping began almost 20 years ago. There are now only one-fifteenth as many as there were in 1997.

      All the Monarch butterflies in the world spend winters in a fir forest in the mountains of central Mexico – in the state of Michoacan. They come from all over Mexico, U.S. and Canada, driven by an inherited urge; it is almost impossible for  a specific butterfly to be in the forests of Michoacán for two successive years since they have such a short life span. Their migration is purely genetic.

     They cluster together by the thousands.   The area covered by the butterflies is measured each year. This past winter the "butterfly zone” covered 2.93 acres. That’s down from the previous winter’s 7.14 acres, and the high (in 1996-7) of 44 acres (18.19 hectares in metric). This is the third straight year of declines – the lowest since records began being kept in 1993-4.

     Conservationists blame climate conditions and agricultural practices. These primarily occur is the U.S. and Canada. Both contribute heavily to the steep decline in milkweed plant. Like all butterflies, there is a specific host plant on which they can lay eggs, and on which the offspring can feed and grow to maturity. Milkweed is  

the Monarch’s host plant (technically in the “Asclepiadaceae” family which in north Texas includes Asclepias Tuberosa, commonly known as butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed or orange milkweed)  The butterfly weed [unfair name, I know] is either orange or red, is native to Texas, and is a perennial flower about 2-3 feet tall at maturity.   

       Other main causes for the Monarch’s decline are climate-related: heat and drought. Unusually hot, dry weather can kill eggs, meaning fewer adult monarchs. For the ones that can reach adulthood, unusual cold, lack of water and lack of tree cover in Mexico mean they’re less likely to survive the winter.

       The biggest reason for the population decline, however, is the liberal use of pesticides and herbicides by farmers and homeowners, especially ones containing glyphosate. Glyphosate is a manufactured chemical found in many pesticides and herbicides; but predominantly in Round-Up. It kills all vegetation and all insects (including butterflies). It’s an artificial chemical found at a great many stores. It’s probably on most garage shelves right now.

     

   Illegal logging in the protected reserve contributes a little, but such logging has been greatly reduced by increased enforcement and alternative development programs.
 



Asclepias tuberosa

    My advice, if you want to help turn the Monarch decline around, is to do two things this and every year. First, plant a mass of butterfly weed on your property. Not only will it be good for Monarchs, it’s VERY attractive. Second, avoid liberal use of pesticides and herbicides, especially ones containing the chemical glyphosate, such as Round-Up.  These are things YOU can do right now, not broad long-term problems like drought and land-use – which you have very little control over.


 
Just last week we were fortunate enough to see a wild turkey in our yard;

wild turkey

strolling casually down the boardwalk through a natural area. Have you seen anything interesting lately?

A natural, safe fire ant control that WORKS

Most birds have learned, over the years, to eat ants. But not imported fire

ants – which are a relatively recent introduction to Texas. Maybe in a 15 or 20 generations, birds will learn how to get rid of ("eat") them. For now, though, I control fire ants by soaking the mound thoroughly with a liquid compost solution. I’m certainly no entomologist, but this homemade, non-poisonous solution works for me.  

I use a mixture of 40% orange oil, 40% compost tea and 20% liquid horticultural molasses (mixed thoroughly).  Then I mix about a half cup of this with one gallon of water, and saturate the whole fire ant mound with it (or a part of the mixture, depending on the size of the mound).  The ingredients cost considerably less than the poisonous stuff you buy in a store, and it works.

It doesn't poison them; it dissolves their exoskeleton. It takes about half an hour before the fire ants have all met their maker. Several days later I’ll add beneficial nematodes to the soil, to control them long term.

 

Black-chinned Hummingbirds

Hungry Hummingbirds     Hummingbirds have an extremely high rate of metabolism, and need to maintain their energy throughout the day. So they feed about 5 to 8 times per day.  When feeding, they actually lap nectar with tongues that are almost twice as long as their beaks (they don’t suck it). They lap incredibly fast - about 13 times per second.

 


 

Sometimes the Capistrano Swallows are a bit off

 

Cliff Swallow

You’ve probably heard of “the swallows returning to Capistrano”, like clockwork.  It was made famous in a '40s song.  St. Joseph's Day is the magic date for them to arrive at the old mission in California, and roost.  However, recent observations have them returning precisely on the stipulated day only twice. Once it was one day early. In 1993 they appeared three days early. In 2002 they arrived a whole week ahead of time, and in 1997 they were 10 days late. Nowadays, very few roost there at all.

 

The Cliff Swallows are affected by headwinds, tailwinds, and all the other intricacies of changing weather patterns in their migratory flight from South America. Also by the character of local land development. Not by superstition or faith. Very recently, the bulk of the swallows have not been roosting there at all, preferring nearby sites including highway underpasses and a high school. You see, development in the vicinity of the mission has changed the scenery very much. San Juan Capistrano used to be in the country; now the area is very "suburban".


Many Goldfinches have left north Texas by now, but some remain here. They'll head north sometime soon, and return again next fall. My advice is to leave your thistle (or "nyger") feeder up a little longer to let these stragglers eat. Hang a feeder next to it filled with sunflower seed (I prefer black-oil sunflower). The remaining Goldfinches will always have something to eat; sunflower if and when the thistle is gone; and our year-'round birds (Cardinals, Chickadees etc.) will continue to eat sunflower too.

Incidentally, the small black seed known as thistle (or "Nyger") is the only birdseed that does not stay viable for the following year.

 

How to attract Indigo Buntings to your north Texas yard

Indigo Bunting (male)

Before long, the Indigo Bunting will arrive in north Texas (early April), having spent fall and winter in southern Central America and Cuba.  Unlike most songbirds, the male Indigo Bunting often carols at mid-day. He's proclaiming his territory. He will sing his way from the bottom of a tree to the top, going up branch-by-branch until reaching the top.

Since all buntings eat insects primarily, they avoid yards that use insecticides liberally. Actually, the influx of "yards" helps the population grow.



Painted Bunting (male)

They prefer the edges of landscaped areas (thick vegetation on one side, open area on the other). Since a "yard" has four edges, buntings have more habitat to live in. (Of course this doesn't apply if there's a huge concentration of contiguous yards, or a busy thorofare in front). So there are certainly more buntings around now than in pre-Columbian days, even the colorful Painted Bunting.

To attract them, make sure you have at least one birdbath. In warm weather, a birdbath is a must!  Also, a mass of seed-laden native prairie grasses (like bluestem, or muhlygrass) should be planted. Since buntings occasionally eat seed, have at least one feeder available. And don't overdo the insecticides!

A key reason why birds prefer native plants Many birds eat bugs. Also, almost all birds feed bugs to their babies. Without bugs around, birds will simply go elsewhere, or starve. (They normally keep insect populations in control naturally). Many of the non-native “bug-free” plants sold are impossible for our insects to digest. (That's why they're insect-free). So no birds, in search of bugs, will hang around them. These include privet, Bradford pear, nandina and English ivy. Don't buy them! They have other "downsides" too. If you want to attract birds to your yard – plant native plants. Only! Birds will then be around to chow down on any bug overpopulation.

 

Give yourself the best chance to spot north Texas birds

 Time of Day.  A myth that still hangs around is that you have to get up at the crack of dawn to spot birds. While there is no doubt that the hour following sunrise has the most bird activity, you can still spot many, many birds at other times of day. (But mid-afternoon is usually the low point.)  I like the hour just before sunset.

       Bird activity depends on species, weather, food availability, cloud conditions, season, and humidity. It’s also affected greatly by other activities going on in the birds’ life, such as nesting, feeding and migrating. In north Texas, keep in mind that birds want to stay out of the heat just like humans do, so birdwatching at a relatively cool time of day is wise.

       Search the Edges. The edges, like where a grassy meadow turns into a forest, or the shoreline of a pond or stream, are where birds are most active and plentiful. These edges are almost always busier than (for example) the middle of a meadow.

Birds like a nearby source of food and water, but they also like the safety of nearby foliage to hide in. So I like to focus patiently on a small clearing of about 10 or 20 square feet, waiting for a bird to dart in for a scrap of food or sip of water.

Search the Shadows.  Almost all birds like to hide themselves in the shadows of foliage. They are trying not to be visible to predators like hawks and cats. Look carefully in shadows, focusing on any movement or flash of color. Good binoculars will help a lot, since the optical quality lets you see things well in low lights.

       Check out Bare Branches.  Sometimes, birds aren’t very worried about predators. Instead they perch on a bare branch (where their view is unobstructed by leaves) waiting for their turn to bathe in a puddle or for an open perch on a feeder. Some species like to sit on a bare branch or utility wire, and scan the adjacent area for something tasty to eat.

Look near moving water. Birds need water every day, so they are drawn to it    like kids are drawn to ice cream. When the water is making noise (gurgling, splashing, dripping, misting) it’s even more compelling. I’m not talking about mighty rivers and dramatic waterfalls, birds just want fountains, birdbaths, sprinklers, even leaky water faucets.

            We set up a water pipe in our yard to drip regularly into a shallow birdbath. Even that tiny sound draws birds like flies to roadkill.

Fill feeders with fresh seed. Birds hate stale, dried out seed.  Some seed is even stale at the moment you buy it, but it looks just fine to humans. Birds know instantly however - so be certain the seed you use is totally fresh. That usually means not getting it at a big-box store or grocery store.

Wear a boring color of clothes.   If you really want to blend in with the surroundings, wear clothes that aren’t the least bit flashy. Hawaiian shirts are out! Solid tan, dark blue or dark green is good. Camouflage is extreme! Even white will spook birds (the undersides of most hawks are white) because you’ll look like a huge predator.

Be part of their world.   Remember all the things your mother told you:  be quiet, don’t make sudden moves, and be very patient. Become a part of nature, not an intruder.   

 

 

 

Nectar concentrate for hummingbirds may save you time



Violet-crowned Hummingbird

     To make it easier to fill your hummingbird feeders with the correct percentages of water and sugar [4:1], try using a pre-made nectar "concentrate":

     To make the concentrate, boil one part (cup, pint, gallon ??) of water, then stir in an equal volume of plain table sugar until it’s dissolved. Simply store the clear nectar concentrate in a jar in your refrigerator. (the mixture is now 1:1)

 

       When it comes time to fill a nectar feeder, pour one part of the concentrate into the feeder. Then add, to the feeder, three equal parts of plain, clear water. (sorry, this takes a little basic math)   Then just hang the feeder in its usual place.



White-eared Hummingbird

     It's OK to freeze either the concentrate or the 4:1 nectar; just make sure the frozen "cube" or whatever will fit into your feeder. The outside air temperature will thaw it out quickly.

 

”I forgot to fill the feeder” insurance        A mass of native grass is an ideal back-up food source for when you go on vacation, or any other time when your feeder’s empty.

Indian grass

There are many kinds of native grasses to choose from, such as little bluestem, sideoats grama, Lindheimer muhly, Indian grass, gulf muhly, eastern gamagrass - with heights anywhere from 5 inches to 6 feet.  The native prairie grasses are almost maintenance free, needing only to be cut down to about one-fifth of its mature height late each winter. Birds will flock to it, often favoring it over the seed in your feeder.  In north Texas, late winter / early spring is the best time to plant it.

 

Safely control insects, and keep birds happy, with beneficial insects

The vast majority of insects in this world are harmless to humans; about 97 or 98% are “beneficial insects”. Only about 2 or 3 percent of all insects are actually pests! Yet artificial pesticides indiscriminately kill everything: whether good, bad or just passing through. Beneficial insects, on the other hand, attack only the insects that are our enemies. Over the ages, Mother Nature has worked it all out.

 
 Kill every bug in sight and you’ll leave the door open for millions of bad bugs, which now have no natural enemies and will multiply rapidly.  These “bad” bugs can cause direct damage (cutworms munching on your lettuce or termites munching on your house, for instance), or they can be bothersome (as with aphids’ “honeydew” dripping on your car). A wide diversity of plants is a key step toward safe, natural insect control.

Ladybug

Beneficial insects won't totally eradicate every insect pest; that's not the point. But they'll keep them down to controllable numbers. The most common beneficial insect is the ladybird beetle or ladybug. Ladybugs come in several colors (red, yellow, orange), and feed mostly on aphids – but frequently on thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, whiteflies and mites. Make sure they’re “domestic” ladybugs – some imported ones can become pests. Also, spraying a chemical pesticide while they’re in your yard will surely kill them.

Maybe there are little bugs on the leaves of your roses, but do you really know if they’re vital to the plant’s health? Perhaps they help the plant grow. Maybe they attract hungry birds, maybe they’re just lunching on some evil insects, or maybe they’re spreading pollen around. Know, before you kill!

Not only is natural insect control safer – It’s a lot cheaper!  In such a natural garden you’ll witness nature doing her best work. Ladybugs and lacewings are eating aphids by the thousands, birds are eating grasshoppers, and microscopic wasps are killing borers. Nematode worms in the soil kill termites, fire ants and help plants grow.

These beneficial insects work cheap, and birds love to have them around. One of my favorites is beneficial nematodes. They’re microscopic worms that live out-of-sight in the soil and attack soil-borne pests such as fleas, grubs, cutworms, ants, and termites. That includes fire ants! Almost all soils have a few already (unless you use a lot of pesticides), but you can also buy them in many stores. Lots of people keep dog areas flea-free with them.

              Green lacewings are another popular beneficial insect.  They’ll consume huge quantities of spider mites, aphids, thrips, corn earworms and other soft-bodied insects.  Trichogramma wasps are also very popular for insect control. They’re very tiny (4 or 5 will fit on the head of a pin) and harmless to humans. They’ll lay eggs in (and therefore kill) the eggs of webworms, hornworms, cutworms and many others.
 

              There are many other beneficial insects around. Ground beetles eat flea beetles, slugs, cutworms and leafhoppers. Mud daubers eat lots of spiders, crickets, flies and cicadas. Centipedes eat spiders and snails. Braconid wasps are tiny black wasps that parasitize tomato hornworms, armyworms and cabbageworms. Damselflies and dragonflies stick close to water features and eat lots of mosquitoes, gnats and aphids. 

 Give beneficial insects a try. One thing's certain; if you don't have bugs around, birds will quickly go elsewhere. Bugs were doing their job safely and efficiently long before any chemical companies opened for business. They’re a lot cheaper and far more effective than indiscriminate, artificial pesticides which can harm anything that dares to visit your yard, including kids, pets, butterflies and birds.